Just as the fall chill starts to fill the air, a new coffee shop called Smokey Row has opened its doors in the Sherman Hill neighborhood of Des Moines.

The coffee shop, located in an old 1918 grocery store, is one part coffee shop, one part soda fountain. A restored 1940s fountain bar is a prominent feature in the large, open space.

Owners Krista and Monte Bennett actually bought the building in the early 2000s, but an expanding family and a changing business strategy delayed the opening of the store for several years. The Bennetts also own stores in Pleasantville, Pella, and Oskaloosa, and at the time they also owned a video rental store and a dry cleaners.

They sold those businesses and decided to solely focus on coffee. The construction along the I-235 and Martin Luther King interchange also delayed the opening of the store, as much of the land that is now the parking lot was being used by the city and wasn’t available until after the construction was over.

The original Smokey Row gained its name from the first store in Pleasantville, owner Krista Bennett said. The first store was built in an old restaurant that caught fire three separate times; the strip of stores had gained the reputation of the “smokey row.”

Each coffee house is in a similar historic building that has been beautifully restored. The Bennetts’ appreciation of restoration even extends into the bathroom, with vintage doors functioning as the stall doors.

Smokey Row in Des Moines features a wide range of food items, from breakfast to dinner, along with coffee products. The store also features a fountain area, where customers can try classic phosphates, such as a “Green River,” a mint-flavored drink. Shakes, malts, and sundaes are also available.

The seating at Smokey Row plays more to the soda fountain side of the business, with retro booths and tables throughout the store. Seating is also available at the fountain bar.

After years of anticipation, the opening of Smokey Row is the talk of the Sherman Hill neighborhood and a welcome use of another historic building in the area.

Smokey Row at 1910 Cottage Grove Avenue in Des Moines is open 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and is open until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturdays. On Sundays the store is open from 8 a.m. until 10 p.m.

Photo by Liz Cleek